Market Celebs'

Going to the market here is educational, entertaining, and good for your morale, as a Canadian.

In earlier entries, we explained that there is some sort of curb-side economy every 50 metres, or so, within our immediate neighbourhood. It's great: we buy fresh fruit at one, meat and bread from another, etc. The watermelon vendors had another successful summer, and have since moved on to the next enterprise.

But the actual "Market" is quite another event. We usually try to get to an actual market once every Saturday. We described the 'Baraholka', a 5km long, multi-alleyed, maze of shops that stocks just about everything you can think of--most of it of acquired dubiously. I'm sure you could buy a coffin at the Baraholka. And you could probably get a deal on a used one. Because it is so big, we don't go there too often. There is a crew of 'blue-shirts' there that help you park your car. For about .40 cents, they will keep an eye on your car while you shop, and they will help you back out when you leave. Sound trivial? It's not! They provide a vital service. Got a small car? Leave it unlocked and in neutral while you shop. That way, they can double park or triple park you and simply jump in and roll your car around so they can get the other cars out when you're not around. It works.

But our favourite market is near our school. The pictures in this posting were taken there last weekend. Friendly, managable, relatively clean. The prices are a little better than anywhere else and the people are great. We were there three weeks prior to our return visit last Saturday, and several vendors remembered us. Usually, when people look happy to see us, or are a little too determined to help, I pessimistically think it is because we are "Western ATM machines on foot." Last week, Edna couldn't barter with one of the vendors at the Baraholka because, he muttered to his compatriot, in Russian, "She is Western; she is rich, she can pay full price." Life in the West is envied by a lot of people in this world.

But, back to our friendly market. After we concluded our deal for fresh dried fruit and nuts, Edna and the boys in the picture kind of remembered each other. He seemed to say "Weren't you Americans here before?" To which we always respond "Nyet Ameri-kans. Cah-na-dee-ens." They flipped! You'd think we were the first Canadians they'd ever met! Or that we were going to use Pez dispensers to start handing out complimentary Canadian Passports. They ran around trying to find someone with a camera. Then other merchants started getting into it. They gave the kids bags of chips and wanted to pose with them. It doesn't hurt that Cody and Kyla are cute as heck, but the whole thing started getting a little embarassing. (But truly: how do parents with ugly kids cope?).

The first time we went to this place, one or two young guys came up and said "How are you? I speak the English." You soon realize that this is about all they know. But they're quite proud to try to speak, and really, have you ever gone up to someone who speaks only Russian and said "kahk vih pahzheh vaheetyeh?" I admire them and they're quite happy to be seen 'talking' with you.

Edna and I both admit we played the 'Canadian-card' when we travelled when we were younger, but somehow this seems different--probably because I'm older (but surprisingly (or not) still very immature).

These pictures are 'clickable.' Enjoy them. Have a good week. It's always good to hear from you.
Pax, Dave

Now, of course, I have to add my two bits. Just wanted to let you know why we had the kids so decked out in Canadian clothing. We had an international brunch at the school on Saturday. They had tables set up on the soccer field and every country represented at the school had a table and people brought food from their home. We attended this and came out dressed for the occasion. I think we may have overdone it but we definitely represented Canada proudly. Dave wore his hockey jersey and I had a bright red Canada t-shirt--it was too hot to wear my Canada sweat shirt--and we had tatoos on our faces too. After this there was a two hour open house at the school so I went home with Kyla and Cody on the city bus. We were treated like celebrities with our tatoos. Everyone was checking us out and trying out their two lines of english on us. Needless to say--when I got home I removed my tattoo quickly but the kids weren't going to do the same. They loved it and that is why we received so much attention at the market. It was fun to see how well received we were--even if they looked at us as full price customers!!!

A Former Soviet Theater/Park

This park is quite close to our place. We drove by it many times wondering what it was. It is a theater and they still perform here--would be fun to go even if we couldn't understand anything. Once again the buildings are pretty massive and concrete and of course at the very top is a picture of yours truly--Lenin. Do you like the picture of the old couple hanging out at the park--I threatened Dave that if we stayed here too long that could be us in a couple of years. The fountain looks quite nice on the picture but close up that was not the case--fair amount of garbage--but that is the case in most places here--getting used to the garbage. If it is clean--we talk about that.

There were two young guys wandering around when we were at this park so I approached them wanting to know if this theater was still active and hoping that they might speak a little english. They spoke fluently--they had just spent a month in North Carolina on a work/school exchange. They weren't overly impressed with North Carolina--b/t the prejudice and then the obesity--it wasn't the place for them. Kazakhs have the best metabolism I have ever seen. Not many overweight Kazakhs and they eat alot of bread--carbs, and lots of greasy meat but it works for them.

Hanging out with the Beatles in the City of the Apple

Did you know that Almaty is the home of the apple? A little fact that my husband likes to share with me. We went to this neat park last weekend--they had a roller coaster there--we will try it out sometime, a little zoo, some very expensive restaurants, horse and buggy rides and a tram that goes up and down for about 16.00--but we were dutch and walked up!! Also, these statues of the Beattles--everyone else was having a photo op with them so we did too!

Speaking of facts--finally got up the courage to ask the girls in the office about the movie Borat and if they had seen it. It was banned in Kazakhstan and they had no desire to see it--Katya, one of the girls I work with, said that it did show up on the street in pirated copies but most people didn't want to see it.

The Other Side of Town

As you can see this is not the side of town that we live on. Almaty's down town is quite a change from the area that we live in. Thank goodness that we don't live in these areas--it is very expensive. We just find it amazing that they are building with this much glass--they are know to have an earthquake or two every year. Last year around this time they had a really good quake--they are still talking about it.

Going to the Market

I know--another picture of a Lada--but I just think they are so amazing at how much they put in and on these cars. Leather faced old men drive them--usually have a cigarette hanging out of their mouth and they look like nothing will phase them and by the way--the muffler is usually dragging on the ground, sparking away!!

The Boys in Blue (no women cops here)

The thing with the cops: a few people have e-mailed us about it. I didn't realize that Edna made a post about it. It's kind of fun, really. Nothing to worry about. Except that when I really lose it on one of these guys Edna and the kids are going to be stuck on the side of the road when they take me away, screaming and yelling. The bribery is astonishingly blatant here.

The second time I got pulled over last weekend, the guy wanted $60 because he said I stopped in the wrong lane. Total bullshit. The guy that actually pulled us over took me into their shack with all my paperwork after I refused to speak Russian. It's not so much that I refused--I just played the tourist. He gave up on me after about 5 minutes and called his supervisor over.

The next guy started telling me that I didn't stop. But I did. And I wasn't going to relent on that issue. I dragged him out of the shack and showed him exactly where I brought the car to a complete standstill. The bloody stop sign is even printed in English. He pointed six feet to the left and indicated that I had to stop in 'this' lane and then he wrote (on a slip of paper; not an official ticket with a serial number) 5850T--about $60. Where-upon I lost it on his ass.

I gestured, gesticulated, and mimed to him, combined with some volume, that I would do a U-turn, drive around their shack, come back and stop in the 'correct' lane before I would pay the 5850T. I truly don't understand much Russian yet, but he seemed to say "Calm down Edna Karen, calm down." (Our car is actually owned by the school but it is in my and Edna's name--he thought I was Edna Karen).

I just kept repeating "I don't understand what you are saying. I don't want to understand what you are saying. I think "Thriller" was Michael Jackson's best album, but he really hasn't done anything great lately. Oh yeah, I'm not paying the 6000T!"

Then I looked at his badge number (they don't put their names on their uniforms) and muttered it to myself a few times. He stared at me again like I was going to all of a sudden start speaking flawless Russian through osmosis, or something. Then he burst out laughing, threw my paperwork at me and said "Go away Edna Karen."

See? No problem. We all laugh. (Afterwards.)
Pax, Dave

Bumper Cars & High Heels

I have mentioned to a few people how the women all wear high heels. This was a pretty crazy or decorated pair of shoes but she was playing with her child in this pretty rough area of the park. Most of the moms wear just plain high heels--this was a pretty stable pair considering they are a wedge--I think that is what they call them. Needless to say, I look pretty macho showing up in my athletic pair of sturdy sandals--still complaining of having tired feet. Gotta look good, they even wear high heels with their shorts--not too sure about that look!

Well, the kids had a great time at the bumper cars. Last year we were at the Smithers Fall Fair and they wanted to go on the bumper cars but they were too short or under weight, that is not the case in Kazakhstan--there are no rules here!!! They sure didn't look back to see if it was okay with us--they were in!!